Menswear expert

What was made-to-measure tailored wear mean?

Made-to-measure tailored wear means the hand-production of a suit, shirt, trousers, jacket or any other garment, done after the measuring of the client together with the tailor following the clients requirements.

What is Jersey fabric?

Jersey fabric is a normal loom fabric, but it is more like knitwear in elasticity and look. It does not have the same modelling details as most knitwear and is cut and hemmed or stitched like a normal fabric.

What does pinstripe mean?

Pinstripe, or pinstripes, is a fabric with a vertical striped pattern with the stripes placed repeatedly at an equal distance. The stripes themselves can be of varying thickness: when thin but with minimal distance separating them, for example 1 or 2mm, the fabric is known as millerighe; when thicker and further apart, for example as much as 2 or 3cm, the overall look of the garment, whether jacket or suit will be much stronger.

What do we mean by deconstructed jacket?

By deconstructed jacket we mean a jacket put together with very thin internal canvases and should supports.

What do we mean by tailored jacket?

By tailored, or constructed, jacket we mean the frame with which the jacket is put together. In a tailored jacket adhesives are not used, but the front parts of the garment are strengthened by using horse hair and with the use of a so-called canvas.

What do we mean by inner-tailored waistband?

The inner-waistband of the pants is given a tailored finish.

What’s the difference between weft and warp?

To weave the fabric, two groups of thread are used on the loom: one is used for the weft, and the other for the warp.

What do we mean by Regimental pattern?

The Regimental pattern is that used to describe a tie with stripes representative of a particular Regiment or club. It is especially traditional in Anglo-Saxon countries. The stripes themselves are dominant in colour and in size, normally diagonally slanting and of differing colour.

What is Caban?

A Caban is a wide fitting, sporty overcoat, generally made in blue cloth due to its European, military origins.

What are calature?

Calature are modelling details characteristic of knitwear which allow, for example, sleeves and bodies to be precisely joined together after separate looming procedures. These modelling details are sometimes visible as small transversal lines around cuffs.

What does Drop 7 mean?

The Drop is a system for defining the fit of a jacket or suit jacket. Simply put it is the difference between the measurement of the chest and the waist. For example a European size 50 Drop 7 with have a waist size of 43cm based on half of the same trousers.

What do we mean by punto spillo?

With this term we mean the effect given, typically to a shirt fabric, by which a regular pattern of raised dimples, or needle points, are used to give texture and depth to the fabric.

What do we mean by a reversible jacket?

By this we meN a garment in this case a jacket, which can be worn with either side facing out. This requires some very particular crafting, known as mirroring, that must render the inner the same as the outer under the eyes of the observer. Moreover, even the stitching is treated so that there is no difference between sides.

What do we mean by nanotechnology treatment?

Nanotechnology treatment is a finishing process applied to fabric by dipping it in nano-sized polymers, which attach themselves to the fabric making it not only waterproof, but capable of repelling all liquids.

What we mean by windproof technical fabric?

By saying technical windproof fabric we mean a synthetic fabric, largely in nylon or polyester, which protects from the wind because of the special treatment of the fabric in the finishing processes.

What is doppio ritorto?

It is a method of working cotton fabric by which two cotton threads are twisted together and then woven into the fabric. This renders the fabric much higher quality, softer, shinier and resistant.

What is voile fabric?

Voile is a soft, sheer fabric, 100% cotton or a mix of cotton and linen. The name derives from French and literally means veil, this due to its lightness.

What are expandable pockets?

These are pockets with a ventral cut within which the fabric is folded in such a way as to give a three-dimensional look to the pocket which remains slightly puffed.

What is houndstooth patterning?

This is typically 'toothed' pattern obtained by warp and weft weaving four light colour threads and four dark colour threads.

What is Optical print?

Optical print is a fabric print inspired by the world of digital optics and characterised by the use of black and white tones. It can have an almost three-dimensional effect on fabrics and the viewer tends to lose focal point when looking at this type of pattern.

What is animalier print?

Animalier print is a print on fabric inspired by the animal kingdom; tiger and zebra stripe, or leopard spot prints are good examples of animalier style.

What is Damier print?

Damier print is a print on fabric which takes its inspiration from the game draughts and is characterised by rhomboid or square patterns.

What do we mean by Crepe de Chine silk?

This fabric is know as crape in English, and refined crape as satin; therefore China satin. It is a fine silk fabric, either monotone or with embroidered or printed patterns and with a characteristically crinkly surface.

What is Jacquard?

Jacquard is a type of fabric treatment, often used in knitwear, in which differing threads are woven together to create a coloured pattern.

What is mako cotton?

Mako cotton is produced in upper-Egypt and has a thread length of between 30-34mm which are destined for the highest quality cotton fabrics.

What does combed cotton mean?

Combed cotton is produced by means of a process that removes shorter threads and any impurities from the fabric. As a result it appears shiny and is smooth to touch.

What do we mean by hand-stitched buttonholes?

The hand-stitched buttonhole is different to machine-stitched buttonholes because it is first cut and then a kind of chain-stitched is used as a finish, which is done entirely by hand.

What is micro-fibre?

Micro-fibre is a synthetic textile that doesn't crease and is soft to the touch. It is used for jackets, overcoats and even for lingerie.

What do we mean by Super 110 or 150's virgin wool?

Pure, high quality, virgin wool is defined as such by the thinness of the thread with which weaving is carried out. The thinner the thread, therefore with a lower micron count, the higher the quality.

What is dyed-thread fabric?

Dyed-thread fabric is weaved from weft and warp threads that have already been dyed, even different colours.

What is foot stitching?

Foot stitching is stitching that runs just a few millimetres from the edge of necklines, pockets, shoulders etc.

What is edge stitching?

Edge stitching is the stitching that runs exactly along the edge of necklines, pockets, shoulders etc.

What are patch pockets?

Patch pockets are those largely square-shaped pockets with rounded bottom corners, which are applied to outerwear in particular, and are considered to be casual in style.

What is a ticket pocket?

The ticket pocket is a pocket often seem on classic or sports outerwear above the right-hand pocket.

What are flap pockets?

Flap pockets are welt pockets, normally there are two, that have a rectangle of fabric (usually with rounded edges), which is the flap.

What are welt pockets?

Welt pockets are those of the pockets which have a bordered-fabric finish, or welts. They are different to flap pockets.

What are Carrettera pockets?

Carrettera pockets are the pockets on the front of pants running from the outer edge of the pant towards the centre of the pant, almost horizontally. Therefore the pocket opening is from above.

What are American style pockets?

American style pockets are those on the front of pants that run from the outer side of the pant, with an inclination of about 30°, to the waist. They are also called classic pockets.

What does diagonal weave mean?

Diagonal weave is the way in which warp and weft threads are woven; in this case the effect on the eye is that of a fabric with transversal lines, at about 45° and running parallel to each other. This weave is also called Twill.

What do we mean by inner-tailored waistband?

The inner-tailored waistband of pants is the finish given to pants inside. There are differing levels of quality: from pre-produced to personalised, or even fully hand made for each garment.

What does Piquet fabric mean?

Piquet fabric (or Piqué) is a cotton fabric weaved so as to have raised ribs, or cords of typically rhomboid design and generally white in colour.

What is stonewashed cotton?

Stonewashing is a process in which the fabric or garment is intentionally crinkled with stones to give it a worn or vintage look.

What’s the difference between weft and warp?

To weave fabric two groups of thread are used on the loom: that used for the weft, which threads horizontally; and that used for the warp, which weaves vertically.

What is Jeans?

The history of denim is inextricably linked to the history of cotton. As of the 12th Century cotton became widespread in Europe and was preferred to linen due to its strength and colourfulness.

Where does denim come from?

The history of denim is inextricably linked to the history of cotton. As of the 12th Century cotton became widespread in Europe and was preferred to linen due to its strength and colourfulness.
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