Messori BESPOKE #3 | Cut To Fit You: the smoking suit

Video dedicated to  the tight, men's clothes for excellence. In this first video the tailor Gianmarco Messori describes the smoking suit by offering style tips and matching apparel. 

Below you can read the speech of the video:
  • Hi, could I not talk about party and wedding suits? 
  • Men's suits par excellence are 4: tight, demi tight, frac and smoking and today we'll talk about the latter.

  • Action!

  • The term "smoking" derives from smoking jacket. Originally it was a suit worn by men in smoking clubs in order to protect their clothes from the smell of tobacco.

  • Today, it's the most elegant suit of all, to be worn exclusively after 6 p.m. And it is also the right outfit for a tour at the casino. It's in vogue in the USA but not very popular in Italy.

  • Especially if it's a wedding, it's not allowed at all. Giamma, you still have to finish my smoking suit off and tomorrow I'm getting married!

  • Well, sometimes there are people who insist so much that... not to make them happy it's simply impossible.

  • Single-breasted jacket with just one button and, as a rule, this must be closed.

  • The peculiarities of the smoking jacket are silk lapels, both traditional and peak lapels, personally, I adore shawl collar. A smoking jacket must never have sporty pockets. The traditional colour is black and the only possible variant is the midnight blue used by the Duke of Windsor. Trousers have no cuffs and they should have a slim satin stripe on the outer seams of the pantlegs, I don't like this stripe a lot, I'd rather choose trousers with no bands, smooth satin cummerband with no loops so as to avoid the "waiter style", and to wear with silk braces. The shirt is white, cotton or silk, with shirt cuffs and an elegant pleated motif on the
    breast. Buttons can be mother-of-pearl, like this, or precious buttons Collars must have upside-down wings to wear a bow-tie: the fundamental piece of a smoking suit, traditionally black or colourful to wear the
    smoking with nonchalance.

  • And when you unlace it, isn't it a bit in the style of James Bond?

  • To make it extremely chic , you can match it with a white silk scarf.

  • And now, let's talk about accessories: never wear lace shoes with a smoking suit, the perfect shoes are patent leather pumps with silk ribbon. The pocket square can be pleated or puffed.

  • Who can wear a smoking?

  • Well, actually this suit is perfect for any body shape, as the button of the jacket is closed, it can also hide a little of belly...just in case.... And if you don't like the smoking, there are other suits to count on.

  • I'll talk about them in the next episode.

  • Nearly forgetting, I'll dress Johnny for next Cinema Festival!